빈범호 여혜림 2023-02 32427 https://aurora.ajou.ac.kr/handle/2018.oak/24511 학위논문(박사)--아주대학교 일반대학원 :응용생명공학과,2023. 2 Part II. 살리실릭애씨드 및 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드가 적용된 투명 클렌징 워터의 개발 최근 중국발 미세먼지의 유입 증가, 코로나-19로 인한 마스크 착용으로 피부 민감도 증가 등으로 피부 이상에 대한 소비자 니즈가 증가하였다. 이러한 문제 해결을 위해 필링(peeling) 제품을 사용한다. 필링 제품 중 씨앗 가루 및 곡류의 껍질 등 천연 성분 파우더와 폴리 에칠렌 등 미세 플라스틱 입자를 피부 표면에 문지름으로써 각질을 제거하는 방법인 물리적 필링과 효소를 이용한 생물학적 필링, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), poly hydroxy acid (PHA) 또는 lipo hydroxy acid (LHA)를 이용한 화학적 필링으로 나뉜다. 피부 고민 및 자극 여부에 따라 적절히 선택되어진다. 본 연구는 화학적 필링 중 BHA인 살리실릭애씨드(salicylic acid)와 LHA인 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드(capryloyl salicylic acid)가 용해된 투명 외관의 클렌징 워터 제품 개발에 관한 연구이다. 상기 두 원료는 지용성 성질을 가지기 때문에 용해도 문제로 투명한 외관 제형 적용에는 한계가 있어 왔다. 이에 대한 해결책으로 에탄올, 폴리올을 포함한 알코올 및 강 염기성인 소듐 하이드록사이드를 이용하여 살리실릭애씨드와 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드의 용해도를 상승시킨 후 2 종류의 PEG 계면활성제를 적용한 mixed 마이셀 구조를 이용하여 석출 현상을 보완함으로 인해 투명 외관을 구현하였고 안정화했다. 본 연구를 바탕으로 클렌징 워터를 제조하였고 광학 카메라 및 이미지 분석기를 활용하여 메이크업 제거 능력과 각질 개선을 통한 피부결 개선능을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 물에 대한 용해도가 낮아 적용이 어려운 BHA 및 LHA의 새로운 접근 방식으로 제안하며, 새로운 화학적 필링 제품 개발연구에 도움이 될 것으로 기대된다. Part I. 1 Ⅰ. 서론 2 Ⅱ. 실험 재료 및 연구 방법 9 A. 실험 재료 9 1. 원료 9 2. 기기 9 B. 연구 방법 10 1. 실험 방법 10 2. 장기보존 안정성 시험 10 3. 효능 평가 11 4. 피부 밝기 측정 11 5. 보습력 측정 12 6. 통계 분석 12 Ⅲ. 결과 13 A. Tamarindus indica seed gum (TG) 최대 함량 실험실험 13 B. 에탄올, 폴리올 반응 확인 15 C. 산·염기 함량 실험 23 D. 겔 시트 마스크 제조 29 E. 효능 평가 31 1. 피부 밝기 평가 31 2. 피부 보습 효과 평가 34 Ⅳ. 결론 36 Ⅴ. 참고문헌 38 Part 2. 43 Ⅰ. 서론 44 Ⅱ. 실험 재료 및 연구 방법 49 A. 실험 재료 49 1. 원료 49 2. 기기 50 B. 연구 방법 51 1. 실험 방법 51 2. 장기보존 안정성 시험 51 3. 효능 평가 52 4. 피부 메이크업 세정 능력 측정 52 5. 피부결 개선 능력 측정 53 Ⅲ. 결과 54 A. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 용해도 실험 54 B. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 알코올 용해도 실험 59 C. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 가용화제 상용성 확인 61 D. 살리실릭애씨드와 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드가 용해된 클렌징 워터의 제조 68 E. 효능 평가 71 1. 메이크업 세정 능력 평가 71 2. 피부결 개선 평가 73 Ⅳ. 결론 75 Ⅴ. 참고문헌 77 Abstract 84 |Part II. Development of Transparent Cleansing Water with Salicylic Acid and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid 국 문 요 약···························································································································iii 차 례 ····································································································································viii 그림 차례·······························································································································xii 표 차례···································································································································xv Ⅰ. 서론···································································································································· 44 Ⅱ. 실험 재료 및 연구 방법·························································································· 49 A. 실험 재료··············································································································· 49 1. 원료 ··················································································································· 49 2. 기기 ··················································································································· 50 B. 연구 방법··············································································································· 51 1. 실험 방법········································································································ 51 2. 장기보존 안정성 시험··············································································· 51 3. 효능 평가········································································································ 52 4. 피부 메이크업 세정 능력 측정····························································· 52 5. 피부결 개선 능력 측정············································································· 53 Ⅲ. 결과································································································································· 54 A. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 용해도 실험 ················································· 54 B. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 알코올 용해도 실험·································· 59 C. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 가용화제 상용성 확인························· 61 D. 살리실릭애씨드와 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드가 용해된 클렌징 워 터의 제조 ···················································································································· 68 E. 효능 평가··············································································································· 71 1. 메이크업 세정 능력 평가········································································ 71 2. 피부결 개선 평가························································································ 73 Ⅳ. 결론································································································································· 75 Ⅴ. 참고문헌························································································································· 77 Abstract··································································································································· 84 kor The Graduate School, Ajou University 아주대학교 논문은 저작권에 의해 보호받습니다. 투명 겔 시트 개발 및 난용성 물질 가용화 기술에 대한 연구 Development of transparent gel sheet and study for stabilization of water-insoluble functional substances Thesis 아주대학교 대학원 Yeo Hye Lim 일반대학원 응용생명공학과 2023-02 Doctor https://dcoll.ajou.ac.kr/dcollection/common/orgView/000000032427 capryloyl salicylic acid lipo hydroxy acid tamarindus indica seed gum (TG) Part II. Development of Transparent Cleansing Water with Salicylic Acid and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid Recently, consumer needs for skin abnormalities have increased due to the increase in fine dust from China and increased skin sensitivity due to wearing masks due to COVID-19. To solve this problem, a peeling product is used. Peeling products include physical exfoliants that remove dead skin cells on the skin surface by rubbing natural particles such as grain hulls and seed powder and microplastics such as polyethylene on the surface of the skin, and biological peeling using enzymes, alpha hydroxy It is divided into chemical peeling using acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid (BHA), poly hydroxy acid (PHA) or lipo hydroxy acid (LHA). It is appropriately selected according to skin concerns and irritation. This study is about the development of a cleansing water product with a transparent appearance to which salicylic acid, which is BHA, and capryloyl salicylic acid, which is one of LHA, are applied during chemical peeling. Since the above two raw materials have lipophilic properties, there has been a limit to the application of transparent appearance formulations due to solubility difficult. As a study on this, the water solubility of lipophilic salicylic acid and capryloyl salicylic acid is increased using ethanol, polyol and sodium hydroxide, and then suspended using the 2 mixed micelle structure of two types of PEG surfactants. And the transparent appearance was stabilized by supplementing the precipitation phenomenon. Cleansing water applied with the technology developed through this study was prepared, and its ability to remove makeup and improve skin texture was confirmed using an optical camera and image analyzer. The solubilization technology introduced in this study is proposed as a new approach to LHA, which has been difficult to apply due to its low solubility in water, and is expected to help develop new chemical peeling products.